Category Five: Fabrics and Fibers used in Apparel: 1990-1998

In the 1980s, clothing was wild and tended to be brightly colored. In the 1990s, the consumers rebelled against this trend of the previous decade and instead focused on natural fibers and comfortable fabrics in subdued colors and lots black. In this decade cotton sales boomed, Casual Friday was implemented and denim became a staple in everyone's daily wear.

Leather

Leather and leather imitation fabrics became huge in the late 1990s in pants, short, boxy jackets and mini skirts. And now, barely a decade after its last popularity, leather is back with a vengeance and was seen all over the catwalks for Fall 2009-Winter 2010.

Right: a classic bootleg leather pant
Left: resurgence of leather pants; DSquared show, Fall 2009

Cotton:

Cotton is a natural fiber that became widely used in apparel during the 1990’s. One example of its many uses was to create concert t-shirts for popular 90’s bands such as Nirvana. According the National Cotton Council of America (NCC) cotton has doubled in use during the 1990’s since the 1980’s.

Cashmere:
Because of

China

’s financial crisis, Americans in the 1990’s fell in love with the soft and luxurious natural fiber of cashmere. According to the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute Cashmere is the fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a Cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger).

Denim:

Denim sales in the 90’s did somewhat decline but for the most part it still represented 90s casual wear. It even eventually played a role in the creation of “Casual Fridays” in the work place. Denim uses a twill weave and is made of cotton or cotton blends.

Flannel:

During the 1990’s flannel was introduced and was widely popularized due to the Grunge trend. Flannel is usually made from a wool-cotton blend or wool- synthetic fiber blend and in the 90’s was often correlated with plaid.

Spread on flannel in July 1994 Seventeen magazine

Velvet:

In the nineties, velvet was now a go-to fabric for any occasion. Its diversity allowed consumers to wear velvet for formal occasions in forms of couture dresses to everyday coats for casual wear. Velvet is made in the pile weave of silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers.

Left: Jean Paul Gaultier velvet jacket
Right: Oscar de la Renta velvet dress

Nylon:

In 1998 the first completely seamless panty hose or tights was achieved. They were a complete one-piece without any seams.

Experimentation with transparent nylon monofilament yarn to create an almost transparent like garment was popular among high-end designers.

Wool:

Increased popularity in wool, or fabrics that looked like wool, led to the “Cool Wool” campaign” of the early 1990’s which encouraged buyers to only purchase wool that was made out of Pure Wool. The “Pure Wool” stamp ensured buyers that the wool they were purchasing was of high quality.

Yves Saint Laurent woman's wool suit

Knitwear:

The 1990’s anti-fashion fashion movement influenced by grunge affected the knitwear trends of the 1990’s. Knitted out of an assortment of yarns and fibers in contrasting colors and textures, loosely hand-knitted sweaters were revived. Designers patch-worked together recycled sweaters often adding other fabrics such as lace or chiffon. Braided and manipulated sweaters became popular. The uneven knitting of these styles represented anti-fashion.